Fall Bloomers

Fall is coming soon, and with it comes an opportunity to create or re-design garden beds. There are multiple plants that are better to plant in the fall, and designing beds is a great way to make your property look better. Here are a few plants that bloom in the fall, That you can incorporate into a  fall flower bed.



Aster- The aster is a beautiful flower that blooms in the fall. The pink, blue purple and white flowers are perfect for adding color to your beds.

Russian Sage- In every garden it is important to add contrast to all the autumnal shades. The Russian sage is perfect for this because of its light blue flower and silvery foliage.

Goldenrod- The cheery yellow flower of the Goldenrod is a staple to fall in New England. This is a tough yet beautiful plant that looks good, despite summer heat and drought.

Colchicum- The Colchicum is a beautiful plant that looks like a fall-blooming crocus, but more energetic. Its big, cup-shaped blooms will give a blast of pink and white to your fall beds.

Helenium- Among the daisy family, the helenium stands our for its cheery yellow, orange or red blooms at the end of the year.

Red Spider Lily- Among the most exotic bulbs, the red spider lily send out a beautiful burst of bright red flowers. After these fade, the plants sappy leaves take their place.

Sedum- One of the quintessential autumn plants, the sedum bursts into bloom at summer's end. This tough plant is able to withstand summer heat and drought, while looking great in a bed.

These plants will add color to your fall beds. As you plan your beds consider which colors go well and what will look best in the environment you are working with.

Tyler Kaiser
T. J. Landscaping

Grass species

There are many different types of grass species that all require different care. Knowing the species that your lawn contains and how to care for them is important for maintaining the health of your lawn. Remember that your lawn is a mixture of species, and each species requires different care.

1. Kentucky Bluegrass
This is one of the most popular grasses in New England.  It is deep green in color and has a soft texture. It has great root systems, but it does not do well in deep shade. It is easily identified by its V-shaped blade and pointed tip. It is also darker green than any other grass. It grows very well from seed, which makes it a popular choice for sod farms in NE. Kentucky Bluegrass is among the best grasses for your lawn.

2. Fine Fescue
 The name "Fine Fescue" is actually a group of species that are similar in look and feel. As the name suggests, they are very fine textured with needle-like blades. This makes them easy to distinguish. These species are popular because they have great shade tolerance. This makes them ideal for most New England homes. However, they do not tolerate heat or dry conditions.

3. Ryegrass
Ryegrass is easy to spot in a lawn because of its dark green color and the fact that it leaves a white cast when mowed. It can also be distinguished from other grasses by its pointed tip, viable blades and broad collar. . It is a bunchgrass, which means it germinates quickly and is often found in grass seed mixtures with Kentucky Bluegrass.It is very important to cut this type of grass with a sharp blade, otherwise it will shred.

4. Bent grass
Bent grass is found on most golf courses in New England because it can be mowed as low as 1/10", which makes an ideal surface for putting greens and fairways. Even when mowed very low if forms a dense turf with a very fine-textured feel. The cost to maintain a bent grass lawn is very expensive because of its need for heavy fungicides, insecticides and fertilizers, as well as expensive equipment needed to mow it. This type of grass needs to be watered almost daily.

5. Zoysia
Zoysia grass forms a lawn that feels like a thick, prickly carpet. Zoysia is found mostly in and from the middle part of the U.S. and east toward the Carolinas. It can be found in the north, but will turn brown once the weather turns cold. It is a very slow-growing grass, and it can take more than a year to establish a lawn of zoysia
grass. It has stiff leaf blades and will produce numerous seed heads if it isn't mowed.



Tyler Kaiser
T.J. Landscaping

Dividing Overgrown Perenials

Perennials spread rapidly and the
question is, "What do we do with them?" Perennials are small flowering plants that grow and bloom over the spring and summer, die back every autumn and winter, and then return in the spring from their root-stock. Every year they grow and expand. Because of this, they are liable to take up a large amount of space in gardens or flower beds. One way to fix this is to weed them up, but that's not great for the plant. How do you keep your beds organized and healthy? A method known as perennial division is a valid option.

How to divide perennials.

It is a good rule of thumb to divide the spring and summer bloomers in the late fall before the frost. If you are looking to divide fall blooming perennials, this should be done in the spring so the roots can devote themselves to blooming.

Before dividing your perenial, it is important to water the mother plant well for a day or two before you dig it up. Also, wait for a cloudy day to divide, because heat is stressful to plants.

Here are 4 simple steps you can follow for a successful division.

1. Rake back any mulch near the base of you plant dig 12 inches wider than the plant. Once you have gone all around, push the blade under the plant, and try to pry it out.

2. Remove the weak or small shoots and divide the remaining healthy shoots into clumps of 5-6 shoots. This number esures the plant will recover after being divided.

3. Divide the plant into clumps by cutting the roots. This is most effective with a knife on smaller, weaker plants, but for big, healthy root systems, use a fork.

4. Gently tease the roots out of the bottom and sides of each new clump with your fingers. Now dig the holes; they should be 1 to 2 inches shallower and 6 to 9 inches wider than the teased root ball. Plant each root ball, and backfill with soil mixed with a root-promoting fertilizer, watering as you go. Water every day for the next couple of weeks to get them established.

Dividing perennials every three to six years is a great way to thin clump-forming varieties. This technique can also be used to control plant size, invigorate growth, and multiply the number of specimens in a garden.

Tyler Kaiser

T.J. Landscaping

Guest Post: Lawn Care Tips from Parker Lawns

The Importance of Watering Your Lawn

As we enter the summer, your lawn may begin to undergo heat stress which can result from the hotter temperatures. Also, lack of rain may cause your lawn to suffer drought stress. The very first sign of either heat stress or drought stress is a bluish tint to your lawn, which is followed by a tannish-brown color. The effects of heat stress and drought stress can be reduced by a regular watering schedule.

The optimal watering schedule is:

• Every other day for 35 minutes in the sunny areas of your lawn
• 3 days per week for 35 minutes in the shady areas of your lawn
• It is best to water in the morning before 8:00am

If you are unable to water your lawn every other day, your lawn will still benefit from watering at least one day per week for 35 minutes. This will keep the microbial activity in the thatch layer alive and healthy so that when the temperatures begin to cool in late August and September, the lawn is able to recover fully from any heat or drought stress. Keep in mind that if we experience a long period of humid, wet and damp conditions, then you should reduce your watering schedule in order to prevent red thread disease. Visits from Parker Lawns will help reduce the effects of the heat and drought stress.

Contact our friends at Parker Lawns for fertilization services and lawn care advice.

Owner- Charles Parker

Parker Lawns

(508) 409-9442

parkerlawncare@live.com


Jonathan Tavares
T.J. Landscaping

Shrub Trimming - How to do it right

Shrubs are aesthetically appealing and add a lot to flower beds, but what are you supposed to do when they get out of control? What is the best way to keep a healthy plant and a beautiful lawn?

Trimming vs. Pruning-
When people say "Shrub trimming" they are generally referring to shearing a bush. This is usually done to shape the shrub. How does this relate to pruning and what is the difference? Pruning can be done to any plant and its purpose is more geared towards improving the health of the plant. Here are a few techniques and some information on trimming and pruning your shrubs.

When to trim-
Trimming should be done in spring and the fall on a yearly basis. In the spring, it is important to trim before
the plant buds, otherwise the flowers will not bloom. In the early fall the branches will probably be a little long and they will need to be trimmed again.

Why trim?
You may be wondering if you really need to trim or why you need to. Shrubs and trees can get out of control and look very messy. The best way to restore order to your bed is to trim them, usually to a specific shape. Pruning can also be important for the health of a plant because it removes useless parts of the plant. This can be beneficial in 3 ways. 1. Dead limbs allow disease to spread through the plant quickly. 2. By cutting off the ends, you encourage new growth and your bush will stay healthy. 3. Aesthetically, orderly plants are much preferred over disorderly.

How to trim-
There are three basic ways to trim plants, some of which are for looks and others are for health reasons.

1. A heading cut is a small cut to the end of a branch, twig, or stem. Every cut you make allows for a new shoot to grow. When done correctly, this method will make keep your plants bushy and full.

2. Thinning is another method in which you remove the branches at the point of origin. When done in moderation, thinning reduces the shrub density without encouraging regrowth. 

3. Trimming is the final method. This is done to shape the plant and make it look clean. An important thing to remember about this is that you shouldn't cut to the bare branch because it looks bad.


Tyler Kaiser
T. J. Landscaping Inc.

Red Thread

              

What is Red Thread?
Red thread is a disease that is both unsightly and can spread over your lawn if you let it. "Red Thread" (sometimes called pink patch) refers to a fungal organism that makes brown patches in a lawn and causes a red, thread-like strand to grow. Often the grass will recover from this in time, but there are a few things you can do to stop this disease from spreading rapidly in your lawn.

Causes and solutions for Red Thread
Red thread is normally caused by one of three things.
1. Red thread thrives when the grass is wet, but the roots are dry. This can be caused by over watering or improper watering. If there is water on the grass blades, when the weather is optimal, red thread will spread very quickly. The best way to solve this is to water no more than every 3-4 days. Also, be sure to water only in the morning or early afternoon, so the grass is not wet all night. And finally, liquid aeration treatments will help insure that the roots get water.

 2. Poor Grass is another factor that plays into the growth of red thread. Perennial Ryegrass is the most susceptible type of grass to red thread. This is often planted by builders and landscapers because it sprouts quickly. If your lawn is predominantly ryegrass, it will be difficult to eliminate red thread. The best solution is to super-seed in the late summer to get some grass that is more resistant to this disease.

3. Poor soil is also a catalyst for red thread. New lawns are especially susceptible to red thread because the soil is not very biologically active. There are many solutions to this, including organic fertilization, aeration and compost top dressing.

Now you know more about this disease that makes your lawn unhealthy and unsightly and are armed with the tools necessary to deal with red thread.

Tyler Kaiser
T.J. Landscaping

Summer Lawn Care

Summer is approaching fast, and here are a few tips that could prove useful in keeping your lawn green throughout the hot summer. Many lawns brown out and dry in the summer heat for various reasons. Lack of water, mowing height and intense heat all factor into this problem. 

1. How and when to water your lawn in the summer

In the hot summer months you will want to keep your lawn well watered. It is always best to water in the early morning, allowing the grass to dry by nightfall. Wet grass in the evenings and through the night will foster fungus and mold. Always remember that is it better to water deeply a few times a week than to water shallow every day. Deep watering encourages the roots to grow deeper and become healthier. The average healthy lawn should get around 1 inch of water per week.

2. Mowing tips for maintaining a healthy lawn

a. Mow when your lawn is dry.

You may be tempted to mow your lawn right after watering or rain, but when wet grass is cut it spreads around weeds and fungus. This is bad for the lawn. Wait for the lawn to dry out if you can. There is a much lower risk of damaging your lawn.

b. Don't cut your grass too short

It is important for grass to grow longer in the summer, despite the fact that short grass looks better at the golf course next door. As a general principal, your lawn should be cut at 3-3.5 inches. Keep your lawn healthy by only cutting the top 1/3 on any given week. This will keep the grass green, aesthetically pleasing, and protected from parasites and diseases.

c. Keep your blades sharp

In the summer, it's especially important to cut the grass, not hack it down. Sharp blades will ensure the grass gets cut, make it easier to cut and give your lawn an appealing look. Also, make sure to leave the clippings on the lawn a few times throughout the season to provide nutrients for the soil. But don't leave clumps of grass, as that will create a thatch layer that will prevent nutrients from contacting the soil.

3. Fertilizing your lawn

Fertilize after you mow, when the grass is dry. If the grass is wet, the fertilizer will stick to the grass and burn it. Use a spreader to get even distribution. It is best to fertilize 2-3 times per year: spring and midsummer. Also, be sure to put down grub treatment in the early Summer. It serves as an "insurance policy" to protect the treatments applied throughout the season from lawn damage. 

These practices will keep your lawn healthy, green, and the envy of the neighborhood.

Tyler Kaiser

T.J. Landscaping Inc.