Thursday, July 25, 2013

Dividing Overgrown Perenials

Perennials spread rapidly and the
question is, "What do we do with them?" Perennials are small flowering plants that grow and bloom over the spring and summer, die back every autumn and winter, and then return in the spring from their root-stock. Every year they grow and expand. Because of this, they are liable to take up a large amount of space in gardens or flower beds. One way to fix this is to weed them up, but that's not great for the plant. How do you keep your beds organized and healthy? A method known as perennial division is a valid option.


How to divide perennials.
It is a good rule of thumb to divide the spring and summer bloomers in the late fall before the frost. If you are looking to divide fall blooming perennials, this should be done in the spring so the roots can devote themselves to blooming.

Before dividing your perenial, it is important to water the mother plant well for a day or two before you dig it up. Also, wait for a cloudy day to divide, because heat is stressful to plants.

Here are 4 simple steps you can follow for a successful division.

1. Rake back any mulch near the base of you plant dig 12 inches wider than the plant. Once you have gone all around, push the blade under the plant, and try to pry it out.

2. Remove the weak or small shoots and divide the remaining healthy shoots into clumps of 5-6 shoots. This number esures the plant will recover after being divided.

3. Divide the plant into clumps by cutting the roots. This is most effective with a knife on smaller, weaker plants, but for big, healthy root systems, use a fork.


4. Gently tease the roots out of the bottom and sides of each new clump with your fingers. Now dig the holes; they should be 1 to 2 inches shallower and 6 to 9 inches wider than the teased root ball. Plant each root ball, and backfill with soil mixed with a root-promoting fertilizer, watering as you go. Water every day for the next couple of weeks to get them established.

Dividing perennials every three to six years is a great way to thin clump-forming varieties. This technique can also be used to control plant size, invigorate growth, and multiply the number of specimens in a garden.


Tyler Kaiser
T.J. Landscaping

Monday, July 22, 2013

Guest Post: Lawn Care Tips from Parker Lawns

The Importance of Watering Your Lawn

As we enter the summer, your lawn may begin to undergo heat stress which can result from the hotter temperatures. Also, lack of rain may cause your lawn to suffer drought stress. The very first sign of either heat stress or drought stress is a bluish tint to your lawn, which is followed by a tannish-brown color. The effects of heat stress and drought stress can be reduced by a regular watering schedule.

The optimal watering schedule is:

  • Every other day for 35 minutes in the sunny areas of your lawn
  • 3 days per week for 35 minutes in the shady areas of your lawn
  • It is best to water in the morning before 8:00am

If you are unable to water your lawn every other day, your lawn will still benefit from watering at least one day per week for 35 minutes. This will keep the microbial activity in the thatch layer alive and healthy so that when the temperatures begin to cool in late August and September, the lawn is able to recover fully from any heat or drought stress. Keep in mind that if we experience a long period of humid, wet and damp conditions, then you should reduce your watering schedule in order to prevent red thread disease. Visits from Parker Lawns will help reduce the effects of the heat and drought stress.

Contact our friends at Parker Lawns for fertilization services and lawn care advice.

Owner- Charles Parker
Parker Lawns
(508) 409-9442
parkerlawncare@live.com


Jonathan Tavares
T.J. Landscaping

Friday, July 12, 2013

Shrub Trimming - How to do it right



Shrubs are aesthetically appealing and add a lot to flower beds, but what are you supposed to do when they get out of control? What is the best way to keep a healthy plant and a beautiful lawn?

Trimming vs. Pruning-
When people say "Shrub trimming" they are generally referring to shearing a bush. This is usually done to shape the shrub. How does this relate to pruning and what is the difference? Pruning can be done to any plant and its purpose is more geared towards improving the health of the plant. Here are a few techniques and some information on trimming and pruning your shrubs.

When to trim-
Trimming should be done in spring and the fall on a yearly basis. In the spring, it is important to trim before
the plant buds, otherwise the flowers will not bloom. In the early fall the branches will probably be a little long and they will need to be trimmed again.

Why trim?
You may be wondering if you really need to trim or why you need to. Shrubs and trees can get out of control and look very messy. The best way to restore order to your bed is to trim them, usually to a specific shape. Pruning can also be important for the health of a plant because it removes useless parts of the plant. This can be beneficial in 3 ways. 1. Dead limbs allow disease to spread through the plant quickly. 2. By cutting off the ends, you encourage new growth and your bush will stay healthy. 3. Aesthetically, orderly plants are much preferred over disorderly.

How to trim-
There are three basic ways to trim plants, some of which are for looks and others are for health reasons.

1. A heading cut is a small cut to the end of a branch, twig, or stem. Every cut you make allows for a new shoot to grow. When done correctly, this method will make keep your plants bushy and full.

2. Thinning is another method in which you remove the branches at the point of origin. When done in moderation, thinning reduces the shrub density without encouraging regrowth. 

3. Trimming is the final method. This is done to shape the plant and make it look clean. An important thing to remember about this is that you shouldn't cut to the bare branch because it looks bad.


Tyler Kaiser
T. J. Landscaping Inc.

Wednesday, July 3, 2013

Red Thread


              


What is Red Thread?
Red thread is a disease that is both unsightly and can spread over your lawn if you let it. "Red Thread" (sometimes called pink patch) refers to a fungal organism that makes brown patches in a lawn and causes a red, thread-like strand to grow. Often the grass will recover from this in time, but there are a few things you can do to stop this disease from spreading rapidly in your lawn.

Causes and solutions for Red Thread
Red thread is normally caused by one of three things.
1. Red thread thrives when the grass is wet, but the roots are dry. This can be caused by over watering or improper watering. If there is water on the grass blades, when the weather is optimal, red thread will spread very quickly. The best way to solve this is to water no more than every 3-4 days. Also, be sure to water only in the morning or early afternoon, so the grass is not wet all night. And finally, liquid aeration treatments will help insure that the roots get water.

 2. Poor Grass is another factor that plays into the growth of red thread. Perennial Ryegrass is the most susceptible type of grass to red thread. This is often planted by builders and landscapers because it sprouts quickly. If your lawn is predominantly ryegrass, it will be difficult to eliminate red thread. The best solution is to super-seed in the late summer to get some grass that is more resistant to this disease.


3. Poor soil is also a catalyst for red thread. New lawns are especially susceptible to red thread because the soil is not very biologically active. There are many solutions to this, including organic fertilization, aeration and compost top dressing.

Now you know more about this disease that makes your lawn unhealthy and unsightly and are armed with the tools necessary to deal with red thread.

Tyler Kaiser
T.J. Landscaping